Normally I write these posts as the trips unfold. This one required some time and distance, though, as there was an unusual amount of negatives I wanted to reflect on.
Vilcabamba holds a very special place in Ecuadorian gringo lore. It’s one of two small towns (Cotacachi being the other) that have an outsized popularity in comparison to their small size. But Vilcabamba stands alone with its reputation for attracting — there’s no other way to say it — conspiracy theorists. I’m told this started in the sixties and seventies, when US citizens moved here in small numbers to avoid the draft, and the small, isolated gringo community was a breeding ground for insular thought. Before moving to Cuenca, Kirk and I assiduously watched a YouTube channel based in the area, and we focused on the good information it provided until the regular mentions of the dangers of chemtrails became too frequent, and we unsubscribed. That’s pretty typical, according to legend. Lots of tin foil hat stuff. I wanted to find out for myself.
Izhcayluma, though, is a separate and much smaller town, about a half hour brisk walk from Vilca, with no such baggage. Its gringo fame comes from the resort/spa that is located there, built by two Germans many years ago. They make it an attractive destination: it’s inexpensive, beautiful, and a private shuttle is provided to and from Cuenca at minimal cost. Many of my friends and acquaintances have gone there, and other than the usual quibbles about food, it seems universally loved. So a few months ago, when a friend suggested the two of us go for a few days in August upon her return to Ecuador, I eagerly agreed. It slotted in perfectly with my other monthly Ecuadorian explorations, and it was an area I hadn’t seen and wanted to explore.
Upon my friend’s return, she opened the invitation to a larger friend group, and so we were now seven total, some of whom I knew and some I didn’t. In the end I appreciated this, as it gave me an opportunity to easily and cheaply judge group travel, as opposed to my recent solo trips.
The Monday Cuenca to Izhcayluma drive started with a hiccup. Apparently residents of Vilca like to show up unannounced and use the spa’s shuttle as transportation back from Cuenca. Two such people were trying to squeeze into the shuttle’s one remaining seat, which was mine. Thankfully I didn’t have to deal with it — although I was fifteen minutes early, I was the last to arrive and my group had been fending them off for some time. The Friday return trip was uneventful.
TMI warning for content ahead. The nice thing about private travel versus public buses is that private transport will stop for breaks when you ask. Management of my 62-year-old bladder has become an acquired skill on my bouncy public bus trips. It’s probably not the healthiest approach, and I plan on discussing it with my doctor, but I stop drinking a couple of hours before departure, pee right before I get on the bus, and limit my fluid intake while traveling. I also try to keep the trip length to six or so hours. There is usually a rest stop or two somewhere in there, and I pee at every opportunity even if I don’t need to. The public buses sometimes have bathrooms, but in all my trips I have never once seen them used. For that reason, it was nice to be on a private shuttle for a change, although at heart I am a man of the people and will mainly continue my journeys on public transport.
One such requested stop was in Saraguro, a small and mainly indigenous community. Most indigenous communities wear clothing with bright colors distinct to their area, but Saraguro is famous for their all black-and-white clothing and cow print hats, and their local cheeses. We stopped to sample and the cheeses were delicious. Saraguro will be a short trip for me in the future; in my brief time there I liked it a lot.
Vilca and Izhcayluma are at a lower altitude in the Andes than Cuenca (1,595 meters/5,229 feet above sea level). The trip there was generally down and the elevation changes made for beautiful vistas and differing vegetation. We had left Cuenca close to 2pm, an hour later than planned due to the transport kerfuffles, and arrived close to 8pm, just in time for a late dinner and a nightcap. My private room with private bath ($32/night) was lovely and comfortable and I slept well.
The grounds are sculptured and beautifully landscaped. Unfortunately I did start having stuffy nose issues — I either had gotten a cold (likely) or had allergy issues with the myriad of tropical and blooming plants (maybe, but I doubt it). Various areas abound and are well-separated: the main lobby and restaurant on a patio overlooking the mountains; a pool; a yoga studio; a massage/spa area with many services; a bar/rec room; and rooms of various types, from dorm-style lodging to whole houses for families or large groups. Being a bit under the weather slowed me down, but I balanced activities, meals, and games with Kindle downtime (Playworld by Adam Ross — phenomenal). Did a basic yoga class (included) and an aerial one ($8), had two full body massages with Reiki on successive days (75 minutes, $30 each), and hiked some of the trails (Kirk left in a dry wash awaiting a good rain). I loved the food, and the menu had a wide variety and was well-priced — German standards; various chicken and fish dishes; a huge number of vegetarian options, many tempeh based; lots of salad options; and snackier burgers, fries, soups, and appetizers. Since there were so many vegetarian options, I stuck to those and was very satisfied. Breakfast was what I have daily at home: muesli, yogurt, and fresh fruit, with flax and chia seeds. Some mornings I also added some perfectly cooked dippy eggs. Unlimited basic beverages were included, but I had the occasional glass of wine with dinner. My total bill for five days and four nights with all add-ons and food was $270. Absolutely fantastic value.
I twice walked downhill into Vilca and took a mixto (truck/cab) back uphill for $2 per trip. The first time with two friends, and we had lunch at a restaurant on the main square. Liked my arepa quinoa burger and tea, but while there I got my first taste of that classic Vilcabamba oddness. The gringo man at the table behind us, clearly a local, loudly started explaining to his companion that the United States government was controlling the minds of Black people to make them talk like, as he put it, “normal people”, rather than allowing them to “talk jive”, which is their natural and preferred way of communicating.
Wow.
So it could be random, right? A one-off? A couple of days later, I walked back into Vilca alone to play some Pokemon Go. Walking the perimeter of the park, there were many restaurants that cater to gringos. All had sidewalk tables full of only gringos, and to summarize, while nothing was as blatantly awful as that first encounter, some of the conversations I overheard while randomly walking by were either strange or offensive to a degree. I guess people weren’t exaggerating.
I also perceived an animus between the local Ecuadorian population and at least some of the gringos. I’m used to gringos and Ecuadorians freely mixing in public areas in Cuenca, and Vilcabamba seemed more segregated. In one tienda, the gringa in front of me refused to speak any Spanish at all, not even a “buenos dias” or “hola”, and berated the Ecuadorian working there for her Spanglish. I’m told that, given the roughly equal numbers of Ecuadorians and gringos in the area, there is a lot of resentment among the locals. Unsurprising, and yet, given the Ecuadorian tendency to be a generally accommodating people, especially in smaller towns, definitely uncharacteristic. It could also be the driver of the unusually high crime rate for a town in the Sierra. The area has an ongoing problem with home invasions, and a gringa was murdered in her rural home shortly after I permanently arrived in Ecuador.
In summary, Vilcabamba has been checked off my list of places to visit, and I have no reason or desire to return. Even if my opinion based on two short visits is somehow skewed, there were too many obvious negatives for me. Izhcayluma? I’d go back in a heartbeat, but probably alone. I enjoyed my stay and the group vibe, but ultimately, it confirmed for me that on balance, I prefer solo travel.
