Quito

I spent a week-plus in Quito with Kirk during our Ecuador exploratory trip. At the time we were besotted with our Cuenca visit immediately prior, and we didn’t explore Quito much. We mainly used it as a base for day trips (Mitad del Mundo, Ibarra, Otavalo, Cotacachi) and in retrospect we didn’t give it a fair shake. And with that mistaken perception in mind, on my current trip, I gave it two days — one for dinner with my friends Lisa, Bill, and son Charlie from Minnesota, and one to get my tattoo done. Then, with a brief stop to accomplish things, off to Mindo. 

That was a mistake. 

I’m going to return to Quito at some point and stay a week, and do a deep dive into it from the perspective of a prospective place to live — explore neighborhoods, live like a resident. I probably will never leave Cuenca, but after this visit I feel I owe Quito that. 

I arrived in Quito yesterday mid-afternoon after a four hour bus ride from Riobamba. One thing I’ve learned is that five hours on a bus is about my limit. Eight hours when I rode from Baños to Cuenca was a stretch. I’ve added Riobamba nights at Casa de Marmol before and after my Cotopaxi + Quilatoa trip next month, to break up the travel. See you there soon, my dear host Irma. 

I did some sightseeing yesterday afternoon, mainly close to Plaza de la Independencia,  near my home for two nights, Hotel San Francisco de Quito. Went to the park and had a malta. It’s a delicious foamy, thick drink topped with a sweet liquid, and tastes malty like beer. There are only a few remaining people who sell it, near the park. They wear a distinctive white uniform. Kirk and I loved it before and it was great to revisit it. Also, oddly, bomberos (firemen) came in a fire truck, with full sirens and lights, to rescue a bird from a tree, to the crowd’s approval. Not sure what that was about. 

I also walked up to Basilica Del Voto Nacional (the huge gothic church), down to Iglesia de Compañía de Jesus (baroque and everything covered in gold; DT would approve), and down to La Ronda (alley- like street with arty stuff and cool nightlife). La Ronda was empty as it was 4pm, but not so empty that a clearly nearsighted working woman without radar propositioned me. I politely declined. 

Then it was time for dinner at Vista Hermosa, a rooftop restaurant with a 360 degree view of Quito. My friends Lisa, Bill, and their son Charlie met me there. We met them in Cuenca at Apartmentos Otorongo when they were on their exploratory trip and we had just arrived permanently. They settled in Quito and love it. Charlie is here for an extended visit before starting his first job after college graduation. We had a very tasty dinner and dessert — auspiciously, there was a rainbow in the sky as we dined and caught up. A lovely evening with lovely people. 

My room at Hotel San Francisco de Quito was comfortable and well-appointed. It’s a beautifully restored 17th century building and pictures don’t do it justice. The restaurant is located in tunnels below the building — they served as a prison during the Spanish Inquisition. Quite a history. 

Today, my last day before departing for Mindo, was completely devoted to my tattoo. Carlos at Tattoo Z in Quito designed it, with minimal direction and input from me. Kirk got a tattoo of a stylized condor when we were here, which we loved, and I wanted to have Carlos do one for me. He did not disappoint. It’s a brazalete (bracelet) around the upper part of my left forearm, depicting animals that represent the four areas of Ecuador (Galapagos, Coast, Sierra, Amazon) along with some indigenous symbology. Carlos was aware of Kirk’s death, and was sensitive to my need to have the process, not just the result, be meaningful. It was a tattoo, and also a personal journey for me. I could not be happier with the experience, and with the result. 

So hopefully a good night’s sleep tonight, and then an early departure for Mindo. 

See ya soon, Quito.